GRS, OEKO-TEX, GOTS and SEDEX: Which Bag Certification You Need in 2026
· 5 min read · Updated
The short version
The four standards answer different questions: OEKO-TEX asks whether the product is chemically safe, GOTS whether the fibre is organic, GRS whether it is genuinely recycled, and SEDEX/SMETA how the people making it are treated.
GRS requires at least 20% recycled content for a product to be certified, with a higher threshold — commonly 50% — before the logo goes on the product.
A scope certificate proves the factory is certified. A transaction certificate proves your shipment was. Downstream claims need the second one.
From 27 September 2026 the EU's Empowering Consumers Directive makes unsubstantiated generic green claims unlawful, which turns certification from a nice-to-have into evidence you may need.
Certification is where bag sourcing conversations get vague fastest. Logos appear on websites without certificate numbers, buyers ask for "eco certification" without specifying which, and everyone nods. Then a retailer's compliance team asks a precise question and the whole thing falls apart.
The four standards below answer genuinely different questions. Knowing which question you actually need answered is most of the work.
The four standards, side by side
Standard
Question it answers
What it does not cover
OEKO-TEX Standard 100
Is the finished article free of harmful substances above set limits?
Organic content, recycled content, labour conditions
GOTS
Is the fibre organic, and processed to organic criteria?
Recycled content; applies to natural fibres
GRS
Is the recycled content claim genuine, through the whole chain?
Organic content; chemical safety of the finished article
SEDEX / SMETA
How are workers treated at this site?
Anything about the product itself
OEKO-TEX Standard 100
The chemical safety baseline. It tests the finished article for harmful substances — formaldehyde, heavy metals, azo dyes, phthalates and PFAS among them — against limit values set by product class. It audits one point: the finished fabric or article.
What it does not do is certify anything about origin. An OEKO-TEX certified bag may contain no organic and no recycled content whatsoever; the standard is silent on both. Major retailers commonly list Standard 100 or equivalent as a baseline chemistry requirement, so it is often the entry ticket rather than the differentiator.
GOTS and GRS: the origin standards
GOTS covers organic fibre, GRS covers recycled content, and both work on chain of custody — the point being that the claim is traceable rather than asserted.
GRS requires a minimum of 20% recycled content for a product to be certified, with a higher threshold — commonly cited as 50% — before the GRS logo can go on the product itself. It goes well beyond content: it covers chain of custody, environmental management, social criteria, and chemical restrictions aligned to the ZDHC manufacturing restricted substances list. Critically, it audits every facility in the chain, from the recycler through to cut-and-sew, which is why a GRS claim takes longer to set up than buyers expect.
In hybrid programmes — a recycled cotton tote, say — buyers frequently want all three: GOTS for the organic side, GRS for the recycled side, OEKO-TEX for chemical safety, plus transaction certificates for each shipment.
SEDEX and SMETA: not a certification
Worth stating plainly because it is misdescribed constantly. SEDEX is a membership platform for sharing responsible-sourcing data, and SMETA is an audit methodology. A SMETA audit produces a report of findings, not a pass certificate. When a buyer asks for "SEDEX certification", what they usually want is a recent SMETA audit report and evidence that any non-conformities were closed out.
Which do you actually need?
Programme
Usually needs
Often optional
Supermarket carrier bag
OEKO-TEX or equivalent chemistry; SMETA audit
GOTS / GRS unless a claim is made
Recycled-content retail tote
GRS scope + transaction certificates
GOTS
Organic cotton promotional bag
GOTS scope + transaction certificates
GRS
Corporate gifting bag
OEKO-TEX for chemical safety
Origin standards, unless claimed
Any bag with a green claim on pack
Evidence matching the exact claim made
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The final row is the one that changed. From 27 September 2026 the EU's Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition Directive is enforceable, and generic environmental claims — "eco-friendly", "green", "biodegradable", "sustainable" standing alone — are not permitted unless substantiated with recognised evidence. Certification is one of the more robust ways to hold that evidence. What you can and cannot say about a jute bag in 2026 goes through this in detail.
How to verify a supplier's certificates
Ask for the PDF certificate, not a logo. Every real certificate has an issuing body, a number, a scope and an expiry date.
Check the scope covers the product and process you are buying. A certificate covering woven fabric does not automatically cover a finished stitched bag.
Check the expiry. Certificates lapse, and a lapsed one is worth nothing.
Verify with the issuing body where a public database exists. Most standards maintain one.
Agree transaction certificates at order stage and make them a condition of payment if the claim matters downstream.
If you tell us which claim you need to be able to make to your own customers, we can tell you which certificates that requires and what we can issue against it. Start there — it is a much more productive question than asking a supplier what certifications they have.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between GRS and OEKO-TEX?
GRS verifies recycled content through the whole supply chain, along with chain of custody, environmental and social criteria. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 tests the finished article for harmful substances. They answer different questions, and neither substitutes for the other.
How much recycled content does GRS require?
At least 20% recycled content for a product to be certified, with a higher threshold — commonly 50% — before the GRS logo can be applied to the product. Confirm the current thresholds with your certification body, as standards are revised.
Is SEDEX a certification?
No. SEDEX is a data-sharing platform and SMETA is an audit methodology that produces a findings report, not a pass certificate. Buyers asking for SEDEX usually want a recent SMETA report plus evidence that non-conformities were closed.
Do I need certification to sell jute bags in the EU?
Not as a general rule — certification is mostly driven by buyer requirements rather than by law. But if you make environmental claims in consumer marketing, you need evidence to substantiate them, and from 27 September 2026 the Empowering Consumers Directive makes that enforceable.
What is a transaction certificate?
A document covering one specific shipment, naming both buyer and seller, proving those goods are covered by the standard. It is different from a scope certificate, which shows only that a facility is certified. Downstream claims need the transaction certificate.
GRS certification bags
OEKO-TEX Standard 100
GOTS organic cotton bags
SEDEX SMETA audit
textile certification comparison 2026
Talk to the people who make them
We weave, print and stitch jute, cotton and juco bags in Kolkata, India, and quote DDP so the price you see is the price that lands. Send a specification and we will come back with options.